Monday 10 May 2010

Sent my line!

I managed to send the line I was after in Cheddar,

'All Hands to the Pump'

Good fun route, I reckon 2* is fair. Relatively easy climbing up to some crimps and then the fun begins with a couple of tough reachy moves that lead to jugs to the end.
I felt it was perhaps a little easy for 7b but maybe just on the easy end of the grade as opposed to 7a+.

On the crux of 'All Hands to the Pump'

I then went over to the wave and had an attempt at 'Greed' it was supposed to be 7b+ but I couldnt even get near touching one of the holds, so I suppose there must be some helpful beta that I clearly didn't find.

I repeated Raw Deal first attempt it is a very enjoyable route when it is dry, smallish dynos that are protected with well placed bolts. Just a shame that the last bolts are so awkwardly placed that they form the crux of the route.

I also attempted 'Insatiable' which is just to the right of 'Greed'. I am really excited to get back on this route when I have some proper fitness back. Easy climbing up to a flat hold, leads to a duo and some tough climbing with strong clipping, finishing on a victory jug. I got all the moves but I was so knackered that by the end I was barely able to strip it. It seems harder than 'Chullila' but hopefully not so hard that I will have to spend a long time on it.

I also met a couple of guys down there who suggested heading up to 'Mescalito' which I think is given 7c-3* and apparently 'not that bad'. So once I am back to strength I will be right up there with the best of them.

I'd also like to take the oppertunity to thank Jonny for belaying me on both days out there, very close to getting both 'Raw Deal' and 'All Hands to the Pump'.
One should go next time.


Finger is still feeling ok, I just tape it up so I cant full-crimp too hard now.
Of course - on Cheddar rock that is easier said than done.

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