Sunday 23 May 2010

High on Mescalito

So with the B.E.A.U.tiful weather we are having I decided to sack revision yesterday and make my way to cheddar with an eager band of like minded individuals.
In a fortuitous turn of circumstances, the group managed to procure another member, and make our band of merry men up to the grand number of 5.

Upon debarking from Tombi's able automobile, I caught sight of a triplet of likely looking lads who were heading up to the same bounteous cliff face I had been planning on climbing upon. Filled with the prospect of some quality partners I bounded up the approach after them leaving my gear and my compatriots behind, soon becoming mere ants as I reached, what seemed like, the highest crag in the gorge.

The band of brothers who had ventured before me seemed impressed at my rapid ascent and courteously agreed to my proposed plan of making a duo of quartets from our two mismatched groups. I hastily retreated down the hill to fetch my gear and once again made the approach. This time however I trudged slowly up the seemingly endless path, every footstep arduous, every thigh strain a chore.
My training on Widcome Hill seemed to be worth naught when steep ground was coupled with a weighty bag and searing sunlight. I eventually reached my goal and became acquainted with the lads.
'Gaz' was to be my partner for the day. Of similar size and stature to myself I was interested to see how he would climb, and I was not disappointed. Warming up on a 7b+ he eventually found all the moves and returned to the deck.
After a short pause we moved onto 'Mescalito'- The gem I sought.

Easy climbing with several no hands rests over the first part lays way for some harder climbing and a two finger pocket that the route is well renowned for. After falling at this point for a fair while I decided to give way to Gaz. He dogged the move and reached the easier ground above, topping out on the route after placing the last few clips.

After a pause for soup and a brief chat about the other good routes in the gorge, I made my second attempt of the day. I knew there was slim chance of me succeeding on a 7c route on my second attempt but I gave it a shot and made it to the move before the pocket. My stamina somewhat let me down, I do not know whether it was due to the heat or the levels of strength required on a 7c. All I can say is that I definitely suffered from lack of preparation in the morning.

I then left my new friends and headed down to Arch rock where Tombi and crew were chilling.

I am kinda done with the whole 'write a nice story to procrastinate' thing now.

Suffice it to say - I stuck myself on a prussik above Tom's climb - took some pictures for the rest of the day and went home.

You can see some of the pictures at

I think it is time for bed now - I dont know when I am next going to go back to cheddar now, probably on the 29th or so I imagine...Try and clear up these projects before heading to font.
T'would be nice to have a 7c tick going into a trip, and also clear up any lingering fears about my finger. Always on the mend.

night night

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