Sunday 22 May 2011


Apologies to those who have read the removed post - it was a bit ragey after a heavy session of being made to feel like a complete idiot.

Suprised I dont feel like that all the time tbh


Fingers are getting there, one more week off - hopefully spent on a beach in spain and I will be fixed and ready to start getting back into shape.

Tuesday 17 May 2011

Interesting Insight

I just watched this, and the first few questions are really interesting for me.
Just hearing the thought process that goes along with his improvement to being one of the best climbers in the world during his era of action.

His thought process on ice/mountain climbing is very similar to mine too, but he is having a shocker when he answers the final question.

I absolutely hate climbing badly and thrutching my way through a problem even if I do finish it, climb hard - climb well.

Wednesday 11 May 2011

Tuesday 3 May 2011


Fontainebleau Special!

So as I may have mentioned about a month ago I farked my finger (flexor tendon strain) and was very worried about going to font and being unable to climb anything worthy of mention.

I spent a long time icing my hand and doing fairly aggressive rehab compared to the injury I suffered at the end of my last font trip.
I was still quite worried by the time we went out there, and found it very hard to get psyched in the first half of the trip.

Instead I organised a couple of early morning sessions to film Marijus on Karma. Hopefully once revision and exams are over I will be able to find the time to make a nice video for him and his sponsors. Until then I have a couple of pics from the 5/6am starts.

While we were there I also tried pulling on Moutton a cinq pattes but the left hand pinch strained my finger quite a lot so I sacked it off and sat around for the rest of the day.

Somehow I eventually found some psyche and got started.
I cant remember the trail of events that lead to my eventual ticklist but my hand eventually manned up a bit and I got on with it.

Graviton - First attempt of the trip
Lapin ou Canard - Flash
Vin Rouge - 3 Times
Le Flippeur
Holey Moley - YYFY! 3 years coming and it felt so easy when the friction was alright.

Corto Maltese - First attempt of the trip

Duroxmanie - excellent problem
Little Karma
Coquille Stand
Some random roof at isatis - ridiculously easy flash
Composition forces

Angle Serac - (other side of the arete to Angle Bens)

Roof at Bois Rond - cool problem

I reckon I made a first ascent of a slab in font! it was all green but an awesome problem. I worked it for about 30 minutes I reckon. Tricksy one.

Needless to say I am quite chuffed about the final result. I was fully expecting to act as a glorified chauffeur for the troops but instead I think I may have come away with the ticklist of the trip...
Depends what you want from a trip of course, but a solid ticklist is always top of my targets.

Anyways, I need to go do some more work instead of writing this and watching house.

I wish I could write something a bit more in depth or introspective...but my mind is a little skitz right now.