Friday 24 July 2015

Setting, Work and Woody.

I have had my foot X Rayed, and I will get the results as soon as the NHS pull their finger out, and actually bother to send the email over to my GP. Oh Well.

Thursday day, was spent getting that done, and then heading to the gym to do a 30 minute cycle, and then a selection of Ab work. 

The cycle felt quite tough, but I'm sure that is just initial 'learning-to-cardio' pains. 

The Ab workout was interesting. I tried to use the machine at the gym, and it was an interesting experience. I'm not sure how much it targeted my abs, since I feel nothing in them today. However, its more likely that I just didn't use the right weight/technique/reps/sets. 

I have had a read today, and, for the next session, I will try to incorporate 15-20 reps, for 3 sets. 

Today, I set another circuit of around 6b+, and then spent about an hour on the woody. 3 fingers right hand, and one boot right. I warmed up on the campus board, doing some simple foot-on laddering, and then did a few hard moves before going home. 

Wedding tomorrow, which will be a rest day, and then maybe Raven Tor on Sunday if the weather holds out. Also my toe. And my finger. 

Wednesday 22 July 2015

Wednesday - Setting

Woke up at 7:30, weighed in at 76.9kg - I was super dehydrated though, so it really isn't indicative of much.

Got to the wall at 8:00 and started setting the circuit board shortly after.

Set 4 circuits from 6a to 7b, and climbed them all.

Had some food in town, and then went back to climb the new V3-6 wooden circuit.
Skin felt sore, and there were times that my fingers felt like they were going to let go, but I managed to flash all but one of the problems, with three fingers on the right hand, and no left boot, I think this was fairly good going.

I felt sore after yesterday's core session, but not too bad, glad I didn't feel up to doing more, otherwise today would have been brutal.

Going to get foot X-Ray tomorrow.

Tuesday 21 July 2015

The Plan From Here and a Recap

I wont go into great detail about the passing of the last 9 months - but suffice it to say, that I really haven't climbed very much or - at least - much of note.

I have still been setting once a week at the Depot, with the occasional day elsewhere (Big Rock & Bloc Climbing) and doing the odd bit of pottering every so often.

I'm trying my best to keep a happy face on, but I have to admit that this extended injury period has started to grate from time to time. Things are starting to move though - I have been making my face known to the NHS outlets of Nottingham, and I have succeeded in getting a steroid injection for my little finger.

In three weeks, I have gone from being unable to bend it without pain, to being able to completely close it (with only a little pain).

My left foot is still pretty much completely knarked, but I have an appointment for an X-Ray on Thursday, and hopefully that will shed some light on the situation. When they realise that nothing is broken however - I expect that I will end up having another shot, and I'll be able to get back to business by the end of the year.

So - With that out of the way.

I'm giving myself 3 months to get in shape, one more month to get some climbing into my bones, and then I can start to project for the Winter Grit Season.

I've got a basic plan of action:

Monday - Fingerboard/Campus/Woody
Tuesday - Core (Stripping holds)
Wednesday - Climb (Setting/Testing problems)
Thursday - Cardio + Pullups
Friday - Fingerboard/Campus/Woody
Saturday - Whatever
Sunday - Whatever

I'll keep this up for a month, and keep track of what I am doing, and hopefully I will see some basic strength improvements. After that month, I will assess the results, and make a new plan.

At the same time, I will be trying to restrict my calorie intake, to try and drop at least 2 kg by the time I'm fully fit. I estimate that with the amount of exercise that I will be doing, that I will be able to drop this weight, on an intake of roughly 2200kcal per day.