Sunday 24 January 2010

Happy for the Moment.

Yesterday was a proper good day.

I went to TCA at about 4 o'clock and stayed till about 10, which may seem like quite a long session, but for the amount of climbing I actually did, I don't think it was too bad.

Dave Macleod was walking about handing out pleasant conversation and climbing help, but I was more interested in the yellow 37-move circuit.
A few posts back I mentioned that I made the 34th move and failed there.
On my first attempt I fell off at the crux with no hope of passing it.
The second time I got past it then quickly pumped out trying to get a cheeky rest before the final moves.
I believe I did the same on the third attempt and started to feel like it wouldn't go...

After about an hours break, while the centre shut and changed setup for the lecture, I had another go at the problem. I stuck on some new shoes, cleaned my soles and went for it.
It always does - but it felt really simple when I did it.
As far as difficulty goes, I think it is probably the hardest thing I have done to date.

The lecture int he evening was also excellent, Dave Macleod had a different take on what he spoke about. Most of the other lecturers have spoken about the things they have just done or the stuff that everyone already knows about. Macleod seems a bit more reserved and spoke about what he really loves -new routing - Including loads of stuff I had no idea about.

Right, I'd better go do some revision for my last exam on Tuesday.
Feeling pretty strong still so good things could be ahead. I want to go do some routes!

Thursday 21 January 2010

No Offence Intended

I dont know...I just saw a profile of someone I climbed briefly with at TCA today.
Apparently he has climbed 7a+ sport.

Now, while we were there, I ridiculously outclimbed him. Not even close to my level.
I really, really want to set myself apart from people climbing that level.
I know I climb harder but for some reason my grades look so weak on paper.

Something has to happen this year, settling at around 7a/b level is really not going to do-every man and his dog climbs that level.

Where do you have to be to set yourself apart from the crowd now?
7a does not cut the mustard.

3 Moves More!

That's all it is.
3 moves more.

Yellow circuit at TCA 7b+ish perhaps...-no grade yet
I fell off the last hard move 34.5 moves into a 37 move problem.
I am so incredibly psyched to do this now.

Maybe I can get it on film...That would be cool.

I think I found some strange way of moving on the wall though, fast but controlled.
I think Landman said it best with Fast,sLOW --- FLOW and I really cruised through all of the first moves without an issue - I think I could climb so much harder if I can find that area again.

Saturday 16 January 2010

Short Exam Layoff

Unfortunately I have to take a short break for the exam period. Only a week though, maybe get out on the 27th.
Pray for some good weather!

Still need to plan something - I really need to stop putting it off otherwise nothing will happen.

Saturday 9 January 2010

TCA Competition

Urgh, not impressed.

I think overall I probably did ok, but I also fell off 2 problems one move into them.
Utter crap, I am certain that with a second or third go I could get them but with time constraints and whatnot I didn't bother...

Just to wait for the results now I guess. They wont be what I hoped for though.

Must improve.


I came 27th but if I had got further after a silly ping I could have come somewhere closer to 13th.
Only 4 points off Tris, could easily have beaten him.
Perhaps if I hadnt felt so rushed then I might have done better. Perhaps my head should have been in a better position, my hands were shaking all over the place. Really not good...

Saturday 2 January 2010


Apparently I have tendonitis in my left ring finger.

I am trying to take the sensible option of a few days rest and icing it for 10 minutes at a time twice a day.
The best way of doing this appears to be to use an ice lolly, meaning that when I have iced my finger I can reward myself.