Saturday 22 January 2011

Training Reflections

So after a week and a half of somewhat more applied training, what do I think of it?

Obviously the improvements seen so far are not going to be particularly noticeable, but on the up side my finger feels alright at the moment.

I guess the main thing I can take away is the amount of time I spent not training was (and probably still is) far more than it should or needs be.
I just came back from the Johnny Dawes lecture and felt that my session had been a bit of a waste so I did some more core workout that I had slacked off earlier in the week.

It may be 'revision' period but a 30-60min workout once or twice a day is more than doable within reasonable constraints. When you plan your day and start to prioritise stuff that is important -

(Facebook < Work/Climbing)

- Time and the efficient use of it becomes more apparent.

I still need to do more pullups, find a good place to do some dips and do some leg raises, this really just involves biting the bullet and starting to improve the things I am crap at rather than doing the stuff I am good at - situps and the like.

In the last 1.5 weeks I have lost 1.5kg in weight and I can now lock off on my left arm! (for a microsecond - but it is all progress) only a short while now till I can tick a one arm pullup and gain my official bragging rights badge.

I need to go ice my hand now before I head to bed so I will sign off, good luck to all that are going to SIBL tomorrow/today.

Cheerios

Tuesday 18 January 2011

Blog reflections

I just read back through some of my blog at the posts from the start, some in the middle and a few from recent times and I can say that, personally, I dont think they are too godawful to read.

For myself it isn't the most pleasant of readings due to the apparent stagnation of what I have achieved but at the same time it has served (as I hoped it would) as a reminder of some of the great times I had from the previous years such as our trip to Cresciano.

I found the posts from the previous exam periods which proclaimed that I was eating too much and exercising too little. This year I am dieting and, as such, eating none of the crap that I thought was essential for surviving a full day of work last year. It's surprising how little things like that can show a progression in mentality and perhaps would have been lost had I not written about it in the first place.
Funnily enough, while I feel quite hungry between meals, when it comes to eating them I find myself feeling full very quickly and actually choosing to leave food.
Either way, I am at a weight of 79.8kg as of 10 seconds ago which is pretty acceptable, though still a little off what I would like. More walks up the hill in need while maintaining the food intake methinks.

I also seem to finish off far too many of the posts saying that it is too late and time for bed...and such is the case again, but perhaps this is the time that I find myself most willing to 'create' as it were.

Anyway, enough of this introspective bull.
Until today (when I chose to walk the hill instead of running) I have kept strictly to the regime - which could perhaps do with a slight increase in potency since I'm not really feeling anything so far.
I tried some tucked levers the other night, though all I can say about that is I'm slightly better than I thought I was and it may soon be time to move onto slightly extended levers in future sessions.

Goodnight all, technically I have an exam tomorrow, but many hours till then.
Wish me luck!




Thursday 13 January 2011

A song for the readers of the long post.


You may need to turn up the volume though.

This was my first redpoint attempt on the song after refining the beta.
Probably about a 4+ tick I'd say - required a fair amount of pinch strength in the left hand.
If I had to give it a trad grade I would say VS due to the lack of protection.

Wednesday 12 January 2011

Worst Blogger Ever.

Apologies to anyone that might have wondered about the length of time since my last post.

In the past two weeks I'm afraid that a great number of things of no importance have occurred. But several decisions have been made.

1st. - I have taken the somewhat controversial decision to stop competing for this season. This is due to a combination of factors:
  • 1st - My finger... While it is not awful at the moment I am fed up of it hanging over me. I know that if I try to compete on it I will only make it worse, no matter how much I proclaim that I will not crimp on it.
  • 2nd - There is little chance of me making a place that I will be satisfied with until I am fully fit. There will always be that 'what if?' hanging over it.
  • 3rd - Since I cannot go to the Reading round of SIBL and Anthony can go to neither the Sutton or Reading round, it hardly seems worth spending such a large amount of money on merely seeing friends (harsh as this may sound - I will see many people when I go back for summer. I hope no one feels too spurned)
  • 4th - With the Inter Semester Break looming its fearsome face I would like to try and get outside somewhere and engage in that forgotten pastime of outdoor climbing. If I am to do this I dont want to have a gammy finger holding me back.


2nd. - I have been inspired to train properly. I'm not quite sure what the 'aim' is right now but I think the real target is just to complete the training schedule I have set. The 'aim' will manifest itself in due course I am sure.

So far this consists of having read the relevant sections from 'Conditioning for Climbers' by Eric H├Ârst and creating a programme based upon a phase system.

Week 1-2: - Stamina
Week 3-5: - Power
Week 6-7: - Power Endurance
Week 8: - Rest

So far the stamina stage consists of:
  • Recuperating my finger injury with late night ice bath sessions and low difficulty climbs
  • Weight loss via restricted calorie diet and exercise (3 meals a day and runs 2 times a week + sessions of climbing and core workouts)
  • Stretching.
  • Increasing the number of moves done in a session by dropping the difficulty and working on technique, body position and static movement instead.
  • Pullups will be on the menu in the coming week - I frequently neglect this area of my climbing and I know my lockoff strength has let me down on numerous occasions.

3rd. - I am trying to be proactive about my movements in the inter semester break, either organising a trip up north, or if can get a decent amount of time, then even a trip to Fontainebleau might be on the books.

4th. - I bought the beginnings of a rack in the 65% off sale at Blacks in Guildford.
I am now the proud owner of a great deal of CAMP gear including:
  • A helmet! (never really thought I would buy one)
  • 3 Cams in sizes 1, 1.5 and 2.5 (the 2.5 comes in a fetching shade of pink)
  • a Set of nuts in sizes 1 through 7
  • and 2 large slings for anchoring!
Unfortunately I haven't the foggiest what to do with all this shiny equipment just yet but I hope that once the exams are over with I will be able to put it to some use.

5th. - I watched 127 hours this evening and it has left me full of desire to go out and do something impressive. While I am pretty certain this is not the desired effect of the film it seems to have stirred something within my brain. I havent adventured in far too long and I think I miss it.
Cheddar is too sterile with the village easily accessible at the bottom.
Avon is overshadowed by Bristol.
And indoor bouldering was never going to scratch this itch.

I think that once this period of exams is over I need to go and play in the wilderness for a bit lest I go slightly mad.


I think this is kinda the end of this post, if you read it all then congratulations.
Your reward comes in the form of these links:
Have a nice day all you strange people that read this, I have an early morning walk to take up the hill in a few hours.
Gotta love the library even if it does smell of nauseating peperoni/Chinese food.

Oh balls...I haven't made lunch yet.
Task one tomorrow - Make lunch.
Mmmmm, cous cous with Chorizo.
Simple yet elegant - much like myself. Ha.