Wednesday 4 July 2012


A Bouldering Perspective
You find something really hard,
you think it might go,
you try it,
you fall,
you try it,
you fall.

You work out some new beta,
you go for it,
you fall.
You try again,
you get closer,
you try a bit harder.

You try till your skin is on fire,
you try till your muscles roar,
you try till your muscles whine,
and still -
you try a bit harder,
you fail.

You take a rest.

You return,
you sit,
you think,
you meditate,
you visualise.
You grab those start holds - and you dont let go,
you get the crux holds - and you dont let go
you get that finishing hold - and you dont let go,
and it feels so good,
so hard,
so earned.

Last night at SSP I stuck, and sent an INCREDIBLE problem that I thought I wouldn't be able to do.
I dont know how hard the starting dyno move is, but suffice to say, pretty damn hard.
Certainly the hardest dyno I have ever held.

I have tried that move for about 3 sessions now, and been pretty shut down each time.

This time though, I found the beta!
I found the beta and went for it.

Those holds were so bad though, and the right hand one was sharp and frictiony, it hurt my fingers!

But I kept trying, and right up till the point that I stuck the swing, I thought it would have to wait for another day. 
This would have ruined my 1 Orange a session record for the centre.

I couldnt have that.
So I tried really hard.
Like, really, really hard.

And I stuck that move, and blasted through the rest of the problem (maybe V7 in its own right?)
I grabbed that final hold and the endorphines hit!

People who have climbed with me will know that I get pretty grumpy when things arent going right, but when I hit that final hold it just felt so damn good.
I would spend an entire week in a mood, if it meant that at the end I would feel like that.

It was really what I think the boulder game is all about. 

The problem I have now though, is what to do with my time.
My hands and body are taking a bit of a beating with 2 months of good climbing under my belt so:
Should I go to the peak this weekend and get that 7C+?
Should I put in a serious effort on one of the remaining Oranges at SSP?
Should I rest for 2 weeks before we leave?

I think I know that 2 weeks rest would be awesome for my body, but I am feeling in such a good state right now, that I want to maximise results.


Resting is such hard work!


Sunday 1 July 2012

15 days what?

15 DAYS?

Holy shizzbizz!

Quick rundown of the week

I went to SSP and got another orange, last three are nails, I may just focus on trying to do the others with some weight/number of reps.

I then took the rest of the week off climbing, then climbed yesterday at Anston Stones up by Sheffield.

I got my first 7C (Bullet) and got all the moves on a 7C+, which I am psyched to go back for now.
It'll go pretty easily when I am fresh I think.

It'd be nice to get back on it this weekend if possible, and I know Omar is going up again so it might be a goer.

I am dong a trial set at SSP this tuesday, should it go well, then I may be able to continue in the future, and set with James Garden, Yann and Liam. I'm a bit nervous, but I am confident that I can get some good feedback on the problems.