Thursday 10 June 2010

Well here it is

The last post for 2 weeks...not that anyone will notice the difference given the amount of time since the last one...

but anyway,
Tomorrow I go to London, and from there France.
I finally feel like I can climb without particularly endangering my finger, I crimped pretty darn hard today on a route at Craggy but didn't feel a thing.

Unfortunately I also discovered my complete and total lack of anything even remotely resembling stamina. I did a 6b or something and a couple of 6a type of routes on the overhang. I then tried a cool looking sloper problem on the front wall and got owned by it.

Fortunately I dont seem to have any particular fear of falling any more, not that I think I was that bothered in the first place - I would prefer not to deliberately take a big fall, but taking one during the course of action doesn't get to me too much either.

I was also rinsed by a 6c problem which was only 14 moves...I counted them...and then I managed to read the route wrong while I was up there. I was dissapointed by this effort because it symbolises, for me, a large backward step in what I was capable of doing.

However, when Ed got on the green sloper problem I had attempted, and cruised up to the point I fell off, I have to say I was a tad jealous. It has been a long time since I have climbed with someone who makes me want to push myself in a competitive manner, I have too long been around people I am not bothered about beating and I think the return to Craggy will do me good.

End of summer aim is to lead a 7a route up the craggy comp wall, this will demonstrate a return to some sort of stamina and also help to train my overhang ability that for too long I have avoided combating.

Cant wait for Font now! Hoorah!

Wednesday 2 June 2010

I'm thinking about changing my name

Either to:
Crimpy McCrimperson
or Slopey McSloperson

both of them do it for me.

First of all I now seem able to crimp again which fills me with happiness, I havent tried too hard but it seems to be roughly better...I found myself full crimping today and got worried. But I feel fine now so it is all good

Second of all, due to the amazing CORE holds we have at the academy I have been setting cheeky sloper problems all day, two grimy problems at around 'V5' or so and another 4 problems dotted around the centre. I am not sure what takes me the most time to do but I do seem to take a long time setting each problem which is a faff.

Thirdly I cycled to Bristol yesterday and it was wet...very wet. The gods decided to rain down their displeasure upon me in a manner most soggy. 15 miles of rain was most cleansing for the soul. Perhaps next time I try to be fit you could rain down something harder and preferably more putrid?

My tips are thin following many days of setting and so on, so tomorrow I think I will go to cheddar and take some pictures if anyone will have me.