Showing posts with label cheddar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cheddar. Show all posts

Monday, 10 May 2010

Sent my line!


I managed to send the line I was after in Cheddar,

'All Hands to the Pump'

Good fun route, I reckon 2* is fair. Relatively easy climbing up to some crimps and then the fun begins with a couple of tough reachy moves that lead to jugs to the end.
I felt it was perhaps a little easy for 7b but maybe just on the easy end of the grade as opposed to 7a+.

On the crux of 'All Hands to the Pump'

I then went over to the wave and had an attempt at 'Greed' it was supposed to be 7b+ but I couldnt even get near touching one of the holds, so I suppose there must be some helpful beta that I clearly didn't find.

I repeated Raw Deal first attempt it is a very enjoyable route when it is dry, smallish dynos that are protected with well placed bolts. Just a shame that the last bolts are so awkwardly placed that they form the crux of the route.

I also attempted 'Insatiable' which is just to the right of 'Greed'. I am really excited to get back on this route when I have some proper fitness back. Easy climbing up to a flat hold, leads to a duo and some tough climbing with strong clipping, finishing on a victory jug. I got all the moves but I was so knackered that by the end I was barely able to strip it. It seems harder than 'Chullila' but hopefully not so hard that I will have to spend a long time on it.

I also met a couple of guys down there who suggested heading up to 'Mescalito' which I think is given 7c-3* and apparently 'not that bad'. So once I am back to strength I will be right up there with the best of them.

I'd also like to take the oppertunity to thank Jonny for belaying me on both days out there, very close to getting both 'Raw Deal' and 'All Hands to the Pump'.
One should go next time.

:-)

Finger is still feeling ok, I just tape it up so I cant full-crimp too hard now.
Of course - on Cheddar rock that is easier said than done.


Sunday, 6 December 2009

Various Things


Found some time to write on this now (between my heavy schedule of eating, sleeping and watching stuff on iPlayer)

Since the last thrilling installment I have been to TCA, Cheddar and seen Tim Emmett (who completely didn't recognise me)

First off - TCA -
I got the red up the front wall in one or two goes which was neat, I dont seem to remember doing much more except fingerboard shizzle (slopey mono pullups)

Second - Cheddar -
I went out again with Ben Broche and my housemate Jonny, didn't really get much done though right up until the end. I ticked a 4+/5+/6b+ and kinda ticked 'The Minstrel' 7a+ but since the top jugs were soaking I had to settle for going mono to the belay rings. I think the grade was pretty much the same though. Short powerful route on jugs and crimps...nice :-D

As you can see it was spitting pretty hard but the actual route was mostly dry.


I bought a pullup bar on saturday and have been playing on that a little so hopefully I'll see some strength gains after a while.

And last of all I saw Tim Emmett's lecture of the various places he has been recently, which was quite interesting but not really relevant to what I want to do in the future.
I got his signature on the shiny white Metolius bag so that makes 3.
Dave Macleod is coming to TCA in January so I'm looking forward to nabbing another for the collection :-)


Thursday, 19 November 2009

Cheddar Ticklist.

Roight
After a long time sat up last night looking at the Cheddar Guide by Martin Crocker (which I think is an excellent guide) I have decided that for now (because of the slightly easier access) these are the climbs I will attempt to complete before some arbitrary point in time.

7B
  • All Hands to the Pump - Arch Rock
  • Postcard from Titan - Castle Rocks (Scary Monsters)
  • Thermopylae - Castle Rocks (Madruga)
  • Still Waters Run Deep - High Rock
  • Fool's Bolt - Acid Rock
7A+
  • Sherry Land - High Rock
  • The Minstrel - The Wave
  • Islands in the City - The Wave
7A
  • Get That Man - Ginsberg
  • Shakin' Like a Leaf - High Rock
  • Ritual Slaughter - The Wave
  • Crystal Gale - The Wave