Friday 5 April 2013

Mojo still MIA

I just got back from our Font trip this easter with a fairly disappointing list (compared to my objectives)

I succeeded on:

Ah, Plus Facile
Pif Paf
De Brevitate Vitae

I repeated:

Lapin ou Canard

I worked:

Deux Faux Plis en Plats Reels
Sur Prise
Noir Desir

This trip was tough for me due to the nature of our 'accomodation' which, in conjunction with the weather, conspired to make top end attempts somewhat of a pipe dream (how interesting).

Basically, trying to perform at your best is not helped by camping in sub zero temperatures while achieving only about 6/7 hours of broken sleep at night...

Nevertheless, when day broke we headed out to the rock and plied our trade on the rock. Sadly this resulted in me fairly quickly finding out that all my muscles ached and that I was not in a ready state to climb anything on my wishlist. My attempt on Tristesse this trip was quickly ended when I found out that I wasnt even able to get into the starting position for the throw (which I caught and held on the last trip). Despite this I decided to join Omar on Noir Desir, which is a climb that I have tried in the past and completely failed to do anything on. After my experience on Tristesse I felt that it was just going to be another shut down effort, but since I didnt have a guide to check out anything else in the area, I thought it might be worth having a go (at least the conditions were good...right?)

After a few flails at the middle move up from the undercling, I found myself sticking the move on a fairly regular basis! What I learned after this though was not thrilling - apparently the following moves are really hard as well. I cant tell until I get back on it in a fit state, and actually do the boulder - but right now it feels like one of the hardest things that I think I have tried and felt that I could succeed on.

Sur Prise was an afterthought after a day up on the Isatis hill, and my strength on it reflected that. I think I need to get on it while fresh to really stand a chance of getting up that....

Finally I tried DFPePR, which I have been looking forward to giving a go for a long time as it is such a striking series of holds.
Some things that I didnt expect to be the case:
-The first move is the hardest one
- The holds are all tiny sloping crimps in the back of the break
- The heel hook is total balls

Still...I managed to do all the moves aside from the first one and linked through the 'crux' bit. Since this is fairlry burly, crimpersome and very technical climbing that I am not at all ready to be doing in my current fitness I'm fairly confident that I will be able to do this when I am back on form.


No comments:

Post a Comment