Tuesday 23 October 2012

Week 1 (as far as this is concerned)

:::::::::::::::::::: I will be updating this post daily with edits ::::::::::::::::::::

Monday :

Craggy session with Pete again.
I dayflashed past my previous highpoint, and made some sketchy clips.
Sadly I then pumped out had to do it in two.

My second attempt was then awful!
I forgot my sequence, clipped poorly, foot movements were all wrong and in short I jug hauled to the top and gave up.

I'm primarily blaming the temperature in Craggy. 
It is just ridiculous. I dont know how they get the customers.
Indeed, I shall seriously be considering going back to SSP or elsewhere for future lead sessions (much as I enjoy climbing with Pete)

I think I will need to find a new time to go there, because 5 o'clock on Monday evening is apparently the worst time in the world heat wise. That said - I am a fan of super cool temps.

Tuesday :

Early start then drove to Milton Keynes to spend a day (paid) setting in their boulder wall.
8.5 hours later, I started climbing on some of their other boulders.

Basically I'm a little knackered now.

I think we set about 20 boulders, from Font 4 to Font 7B/C(?), and extensively tested the top end problems.
Naturally, this results in a lot of climbing on hard moves.

I stuck around after we finished setting and hang around with some of (what appeared to be) regulars, some of whom were pretty strong. It was nice to try and be a bit more competitive with climbing again in terms of beating other people to doing problems..

My fingers are pretty sore now, I'm looking forward to a day or two off climbing now so I can heal up in time for the Peak.

I will do a light run tomorrow, and maybe do some stretching /core afterwards, I'll listen to 'Answer me this' While I run and it'll be great.

Wednesday :

Very lazy day,
Legs were ruined after the setting yesterday
Did my run for around 20 minutes then came back and had a bath to soothe the muscles.

Considered going to the movies, but couldnt be arsed.
Watched a couple of games from my SC2 league and played some games with friends.

Basically - didnt do a great deal.

Stretching tomorrow, then driving to the Peak District in the evening.

Thursday :

Lazy day in the morning, woke up, had a bit of lunch and then drove to Sheffield.

After about 5 hours in the car (stupid traffic jams) I arrived at the works and tried to call either of the two people I was supposed to be staying with that weekend. Neither of them responded, so I ended up climbing for about an hour on the new Yellow Circuit. No idea what grade they were, but it was a nice level for onsighting at, I ran around and did most of the yellows and then got kicked out of the centre and went to the pub.

Friday :

Got up at about 08:30 and headed out to the grit.

Perfect conditions, breezy, sunny and bitter cold.

Great training for Swizerland really :-)

After running a few laps on the Green traverse to warm up, I headed over to get on Brass Monkeys.
Brass Monkeys has been on my ticklist for quite a while now, ever since I walked over to it on a blazing hot day a few trips back.

I hadnt tried it before this trip, but I am pleased to say that I managed to do it in a single session to tick not only my first Gritstone 7C, but my first 7C in a session.

Brass Monkeys is definitely a problem that is a bit easier for those with a decent arm span, as the slaps are large to say the least.
After the first two slaps, you are left with a big cutloose and then some easier moves and a topout to contend with. The first time I did the top out from standing, I stood on the lip for about 2 minutes before committing to start stepping up the super green face above.

When I eventually held the cut from the start of the problem, I walked up the top with no hesitation, took in the view, and then rapidly descended to put on my downy.

In the afternoon, I met up with Ben Norman, who is now at uni in Sheffield (the lucky bastard) and went to Burbage to try West Side Story.

While WSS might continue to elude me, I managed to get one move higher than I have done before, and I think that I actually stand a chance of doing it, which in the past has felt a long way off. Psyche is still high for this, the most difficult of the 7B+ boulders in the world.

After we gave up on WSS, we headed over to the other side of the Burbage valley to get on 'The Terrace'. Again, this is the first time I have tried the problem, and boy is it a good'un. As far as I am concerned, I think this will be the next 7C that I try to complete. Only failed to do one move, and that was after an entire days climbing already. Eventually the dusk started to come in and it started to snow so we decided to call it a day.

Saturday :

I tried to do an early start at about 08:00, but when it actually came time to get up and go out, the draw of bed, and the grimy nature of Ben's Student accommodation kept me firmly in bed till about 10ish when we finally made a beeline to the rock.

The plan for the morning was to get on Brad Pitt and the Storm. Unfortunately, both were beyond me once again, and I was forced to retreat to Zippy's Traverse with Laurie. I did it a couple of times in the good conditions, just so I could do it in good style. Happy to lay this one nicely to rest.

After flashing 'The Hourglass' We headed back over to Brass Monkeys, and Ben got on it and sent it fairly quickly and easily.

I was losing skin, power and psyche by this point, so we did a runner back to Ben's house and I drove back to the South.

Unfortunately, I was a bit of a twat, and forgot to charge my batteries before heading up. I also forgot my charger, so when it came to getting footage and photos, I am a little bare on the ground.
I have video of the BM ascent, and some of Green Traverse, but that is all :-/

Sunday :

Today has been very lazy so far, bought some food and done some editing from the weekend for the new video I am making to document the end of this season, and into the coming one.

Tomorrow is Craggy for routes and Tuesday is Craggy to take a family friend's daughter for a climb. Should be interesting.

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