Tuesday 9 October 2012

Tired of being a Lardarse - Introducing the Targets!






I'm not really sure on the difference between 'Attainable' and 'Realistic' but what can you do?

I'm shocked.
I'm 80kg again!

80 freaking kg!
That is waaaaaay too heavy.

I was 75kg just before going to Rocklands!

Basically I am starting to feel like a bit of a lardarse.
I mean, I am technically down on my weight from a year or two ago, but I was really starting to see some gains from climbing.

What is interesting to note, is that my hardest boulder ascent and my hardest route ascent have actually both come at this increased weight.

I dont really know what to think about this coincidence, but I think I can confidently say that if I was lighter I would see benefits in my climbing.

This is Target Number One!

I will return to 75kg before our trip in December.

This means losing about 2.5kg a month over October and November.
In real terms:
2.5kg = 2.5 x 7700cal
=19250cal over 2 months

2 months = 8 weeks = 56 days

19250÷56 = 343cal/day

If I need 2000 cals to maintain my weight each day then somewhere near 1700 calories will work out well with extra cardio.


Target number 2 is related to my climbing performance.

Initially, I was pretty psyched on the competition scene this season, but after spending a bit of time outside, I am suddenly a bit more interested in doing well on the rock.

I mean, I will still go to the competitions, but I think that at the moment I am going to prioritise the winter season on the grit.

Last weekend I managed to do Zippy's traverse - Tough 7B in a short session in sub-optimal conditions (still pretty good conditions.

I then failed on Brad Pit and The Storm.

I think that I am not unreasonable in proposing that I should attempt to do:

At least one 7C on each of Grit, Fontainerock, and Gneiss 
over the winter season

I think this is an achievable goal, especially given that I seem capable of 7B in a session.
I need to choose appropriate problems,

I think The Terrace at Burbage is a good choice for the grit
Dr Crimp on the gneiss would be a good tick, but perhaps not quite my style. 
I think 'Birds' is a better shout.
In Fontainebleau I really haven't got a project in mind.
Bigboss, Fourmis Rouges, Eclipse, or Deux faux plis en plats reĆ©ls come to mind

I suppose that will come down to who else wants to get on these things.

I will do at least one fingerboard session a week

Mainly focussed on locking off on small holds. I imagine that once I lose some weight, and gain some more strength then I will be able to do one arm lockoffs on some of the beastmaker holds, which will no doubt lead to even quicker gains!

I will do at least one yoga session a week

We have a really good sequence of yoga at the school wall which is pretty killer, we did a couple of reps of it a week or two ago but haven't done any since, probably because no one wants to. I will force myself to, it will help with stretching and core strength.

I will try to get to Evolution climbing centre on Wednesday Evenings

I have been finding it a bit hard to train at the school/craggy, and I think that if I can get down to Evo - home of the super strong - I will be able to get at least one solid training session a week.

I will try to do one session of cardio a week.

Be this a run, fives game, swim, cycle, gym. Whatever, this is an important part of the weight loss program and therefore (unwillingly) needs to be done.

I will try to fit in a session of power endurance training

In reality this just means doing some hard route climbing somewhere, although it can also mean some on the minute training for boulders. Ideally it will involve some tough onsight sport climbing indoors.

I cant think of anything else to say right now, and it is pretty late so I am going to go to bed.

G'night all.

Let the starvation commence!

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