Monday 6 August 2012

Update Post

Hi all.

I'm sorry to say that I haven't written any more rubbish story for you, so you'll have to make do with me bragging about my awesome climbing trip.

There is lots of good footage, and many good pictures.
Unfortunately, given that the internet here is awful, and my computer is even worse, they will have to wait till I am in Cape Town until anything might be done about that situation.

I managed to get out to the Rhino Boulder yesterday afternoon after walking past it multiple times on the way to other areas. The conditions had set themselves up to be less than perfect, with clouds rolling through the pass and spots of rain throughout the day that had forced us to bail off of various other things in the area.
It was also damned cold because of the wind.

Fortunately, the wind dried off the rock and conditions were super grippy, every one of the holds on the Rhino is very skin friendly and it was a pleasure to climb.
When I showed up, we met two friends there,one of whom was trying it. She had worked out the beta during her previous sessions on the problem and kindly gave me all the minutia of foot and hand movements that would have doubtless taken me quite a lot of time to figure out.

My first attempt ended about halfway through during a tricky heel-->toe footswap and I landed on the ground with my hands freezing cold and lacking any feeling.
I rested a while and plotted some beta to make that move a little easier.

On my second attempt, everything went about the same. But at the point I had fallen off before, I clamped a bit harder and managed to power on through the moves to arrive at the top in a bit of a knackered state.

Given that the weather was super cold, and I never expected to do it so quickly, there are no photos or video. The other members of the trip will no doubt like to give it a go though, and I will get some neat footage and pictures when the skies are a little bluer and the weather a little warmer.

I also managed to do Cedar Spine on my second session of the trip 2 evenings ago. After padding out the landing pretty comprehensively, and working out the ground moves again, I found myself at the airy crimp move up top and just gave it some beans to reach the good flat holds up top.

I was speaking to some Scottish chaps yesterday and they said that when they were trying the problem, 2 people consecutively sprained their ankles and one guy is sitting in the Pakhuis campground with a cast on his foot from that problem. I'm glad I didnt find this out before I did it, because otherwise I might not have managed to commit to the move and complete the problem.

Ticklist so far:


The Golden Rail8 Day Rain6C18/07/2012
The Golden Child8 Day Rain6B+18/07/2012
The Beckoning8 Day Rain6B+18/07/2012
The Beckoning Sit Start8 Day Rain7A18/07/2012
A Question of BalanceRoadside7B19/07/2012
Sun RunRoadside6C+19/07/2012
KieslFields of Joy7A21/07/2012
Dirty LiesFields of Joy7A+21/07/2012
The Soul TrainFields of Joy7B+21/07/2012
RSAClose Plateau6B22/07/2012
Girl on our mindClose Plateau6B+22/07/2012
Poison DwarfClose Plateau7B22/07/2012
Witness the SicknessClose Plateau(8A)22/07/2012
Gegen Den WindsFields of Joy7A+24/07/2012
FAILED TO DO ANYTHINGRiverside25/07/2012
REST DAY8 Day Rain26/07/2012
Hueco Face8 Day Rain6B+27/07/2012
Whirlpool Arete8 Day Rain6A+27/07/2012
Mud Puddles8 Day Rain7B27/07/2012
Crazy Leg8 Day Rain7B27/07/2012
Great Escape Sassies6C+29/07/2012
Nothing8 Day Rain30/07/2012
Sale in ExecutionFields of Joy6C31/07/2012
Stinky PantsFields of Joy7B31/07/2012
ManiacFields of Joy(7B)31/07/2012
When the Day BreaksRoadcrew7B01/08/2012
Hill StartRoadcrew7A01/08/2012
Cedar SpineCedar Spine Gully(7C)01/08/2012
Riverside SlabRiverside6B03/08/2012
Des Claques Pour NiniRiverside7B03/08/2012
Cedar SpineCedar Spine Gully7C04/08/2012
Le Bowling BallFortress7A04/08/2012
The RhinoThe Rhino Boulders7B+05/08/2012

Cheerios all, 8 day rain later methinks, unless we head to Pakhuis Campground again.

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