Stuff.

shmeh, I really cant be arsed to update this right now but if I dont then it will get backlogged and I wont remember anything.

so, on monday I went to the Westway centre again and played fives, played average,

Dissapointing, I feel like I am playing ok, but still end up losing.

I dont know if it is the opponents, my shot selection, my partner, my fitness or what, but I keep losing and it is a little annoying.

Fortunately I manage to keep my head a little better than one of the other chaps there, who gets in a right tizzey if he plays a single bad shot...swearing and the like, nice to get a proper hint when you are playing well though... :-P

Tuesday, came home and rested due to being completely knackered.

Wednesday, weighed myself in the morning 80.3 Kg, pretty happy with this, but could still lose more.

Got let off work early so I went and had a climb at Cranleigh and didnt really manage anything but did loads of the hard moves on the 'hard' problems (around 7a perhaps maybe a tad more)

Thursday - work in the morning then a competition at Sutton, looking forward to it. Im wary of pushing myself a little too far though and I dont think I will commit too well to moves...but oh well...better in than out I guess.

Kinda out of stuff to piss and moan about now so I am going to do some mroe uke, my recital earlier was shoddy.

My first ever recording! Enjoy it!

Pretty self explanatory, recorded on my laptop, which is the only reason it is not very good.

Nothing to do with my playing, or more importantly my singing.

Aside from that, much has happened over the weekend, I played rugby on Saturday for the Cranleigh village second team, we won, but my leg cramped up biiiiigtime and kinda ached for a while. Anyway, I drank up on water and went out to SSP this morning for a bit more climbing.

My hand feels bags better, climbed a 6c onsight then attempted a 6c+ onsight, but it had a stupid move at the top that must have been nigh on impossible for some people. There is some stupid ass setting in there. No doubt. Nice moves though once you get em.

Great people too, in my two visits there I would say I have met more friendly people than I have at any other wall, and regulars too. Just a shame it is not better.

Cant wait to get back to bath now, I really want to go climb in the gorge and get my hard earned stamina back.

Chars!

Setting at SSP

My fingers

Are

Raw!

Red raw.

I went down to Surrey Sports Park today. stayed for 5 hours and performed some repairs on the useless set of problems they had present. I met Jack HP and set about 6 or so problems of about 6b/c and a couple easier.

It's funny, after setting there I can now appreciate the management at TCA. Not that SSP is godawful, but TCA just gets it right. Holds are kept together and easily accessible to setters, bolts and screws go in specific boxes, the drills work well. etc etc. SSP has a lot of potential right now, but I reckon it could do with tightening up everything that goes on, the holds are a good set, some really good slopers, crimps and angles to set on.

After setting the problems, we then had to climb them, and explain to everyone how the stupid sitstart to the black problem went. Fortunately this was pretty easy, only one held out for a while. A huge dyno between jugs, possibly around 6c for size alone.

Anyways, hand is alright still, just need to chill out and let the skin regrow.

Might be going back to SSP next week sometime to get some more routes set and get some more climbing in. Excited!

New Fastest Solve

Not much to show here apart form a picture...but here it is

Not 100% but I think the 32.57 time might be a new pb.

The average time is for sure. First time averaging under 40 seconds.

Good stuff.

Time for a climb now I think.

Damnit!

Seems I have some issue with being capable of staying in a semblance of fitness for more than a week at the moment.

Yesterday I managed to put a spade into my foot while attempting to dig a hole. Pushed down on it, and it went straight through the sole of my shoe and punctured the skin. Now my foot is bruised and walking is a right pain.

I'm just trying to help out my family garden and boom injured. Lesson here I think is never to try and help anyone ever, it only ends in pain.

:-)

might do some fingerboarding on my left hand.

Nowt much else to can do.

Sitting Awake, watching films

I was happily clearing out my harddrives, moving things around, making space, and I found a bunch of climbing films that have evaded viewing by hiding in the wrong files.

First on the list was Welsh Connections, which took me ages to download, and then I completely forgot about it. Some super bouldering on that, not to mentions Emmett's attempts on Muy Caliente.

Next up I found Dosage 1 - Which opens with Sharma projecting The Mandala in 2000. At the time it was thought to be hard V14...after a few holds broke and over time it has settled to be soft V12.

I just thought it was amazing to see how talents have grown. It seems a lot of people are climbing at around 8c now. Some even harder. People are flashing/onsighting up to 8b+!

Lastly I am watching Steve McClure trying overshadow on Hard XS. It is a little strange for a sport route of it's calibre and history to actually receive such good coverage I think. I am sure FRFM will have the same amount. Jumbo Love almost certainly did and it is because of the human element to the story, of the effort that goes into the first ascent. La Novena Enmienda 9a+, which is the same grade as Overshadow, received sod all coverage over here and I feel because of it, that Sharma didnt really have to commit himself too hard to the problem.

Of course, I could be massively wrong about the whole thing, and missed all of the hype surrounding it...

Anyways, I'm getting the SPS (sweaty palm syndrome) from watching these films, so I am going to cut off now and keep watching more intently.

Boom! Sit Down!

UKC gets on my tits something special.

I ask a simple question regarding average grades, and some 'finance type' douchebag tells me that I am speaking nonsense.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=423440&new=6009252#x6009252

That should teach him not to disagree with someone who: has far too much free time, stays awake till 3am to argue a point on the internet, has unparalleled spelling ability, no respect for grammar, and was (most importantly) correct in the first place.

However, due to the nature of this fickle beast at the heart of the web I suppose it will have absolutely zero effect whatsoever on this dunderhead. http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=23571

At least I bumped my thread back to the top and gave my brain a vague workout.

Craggy tomorrow! woot woot!