Friday 29 October 2010

Some Advice.

I wrote this today after I was inspired by a UKC post.
Hopefully it can help you as much as it has helped me.

How to Boulder Harder.

1 -
Remove any tops before starting.

2 -
Find a Beanie, the more ridiculous the better. (see 'Nalle Huckataivalle')
The grade you can climb has been proven relative to the size of the pom pom on top.

Nalle followed the rules and he does alright on the rock.
Unfortunately he is breaking rule 5...

3 -
Only ever use loose chalk, balled chalk is too slow for projects. If you have time to sqeeze you are not climbing hard enough.

4 -
You want to have a roughly 10:90 split between actaully climbing the problem and brushing the holds. The more horse hair bristles the harder you climb.

5 -
Any time not used climbing should be spent in a down jacket.

6 -
The more mats the better, if you are at your limit you should be falling lots, the more mats you have the longer you can spend projecting.

7 -
If you are failing on something, find something harder of another style (or the same style - the holds on the current one are greasy anyway)

8 -
Group size must never be less than 3 for hard sends, beta, pad moving and the more brushes available all contribute to success.

9 -
Your group should contain as many nationalities as possible. And at least one American, Spanish or french person so you can be shouted at in as many languages as possible. VENGA!

10 -
Your chances of success on a problem are more than doubled if a weak punter has just fallen off it, make sure you have one as an essential part of your climbing gear...(oh...hi Tombi, didnt see you there... :-P)

I had another day off today, early start tomorrow then a day trip to Portland, Lightning Strike sounds like it is an awesome 3* problem and I shall be getting on that for the day.

Also Miso soup is taaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasty.

Little confused as to why the 'next blog' link leads on to 5 pages of fishing blogs....

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