Sunday 24 October 2010

Cheddar today

Well yes,

Cheddar today.

I attempted a 7c on the Tsunami called 'Hard Bass Religion' only it was a little more than Hard.
I did all the moves but one of them, which seemed to be a four points off dyno to a sloping crimp hold with the right hand...Now - I could have been doing it wrong, but I sure as hell didnt see any other holds up there, and the one that looked vaguely chalky seemed like it might have broken.

I shall investigate further and report back to you - my adoring fans.

I also flashed the most wishy washy 7a in the gorge 'Joyride', never that grade in a billion years.
Far, Far easier than Raw Deal and if I had tried it a year ago I would have had my first 7a onsight with ease...

anyway...we then got on a 7a+ 'Dope on a Slope' described in the guide as an exercise in slopers...
It is a complete 1 move problem and personally I wouldnt bother with it if you had other options...I eventually sent the move and finished the 3 moves to the top. Unfortunately it took it's toll on my skin and now my finger feels a little sore.

I am hoping to go to TCA tomorrow and just do some finger training instead of proper problem climbing.
Nice to do it in a cheery atmosphere and all that.

Might spend some more time this week trying to lose some weight in prep for the next SIBL round, instead of just getting stronger...Time to eat like a rabbit.

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