Tuesday 5 October 2010

A couple of climbs

So after my last post on Monday I went to TCA and had a proper go at the Mothership, I hate that angle and I cant climb for shit on it. As such I was chewed up and spat off the holds. Inspiring me to get stronger fingers though.

I think I have an imbalance between my first two fingers and the ring fingers on both hands, which leads to injuries to those fingers and overloading on the first two. Hopefully if I keep training on three finger open handed holds then they will toughen up and I'll be a pro...



Today I took an hour or so and went to Bathford to try out this climb.


And it is certainly as hard as he makes it sound.
I made the first few moves (which he makes look easy-they really arent) but didn't manage to get the crux move (the move through with the right hand followed by throw to the jug.

The last left hand hold is alright but very hard to get your hand into with the crossthrough, coupled with that is the way it is held puts a lot of pressure down the ring finger...which didn't fill me with chuckles. I'm sure I can do it at some point but it is hard and not often in condition (surprised it was alright today actually, maybe it could be a wet weather keeper)
Anyways, I gave up after a wasp flew out of the crux left hand pocket. We went up there last year and they swarmed when Jonny accidentally bothered them, so I wasn't too interested in exploring their potential nest...


I'm going to go to TCA tomorrow it seems, hopefully I'll manage to put in a decent performance and maybe tick a couple more reds.

Next aim is to get on The Slick Red Road to G'dansk in Cheddar when I can and finish up on the year's target.

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