Wednesday 12 January 2011

Worst Blogger Ever.

Apologies to anyone that might have wondered about the length of time since my last post.

In the past two weeks I'm afraid that a great number of things of no importance have occurred. But several decisions have been made.

1st. - I have taken the somewhat controversial decision to stop competing for this season. This is due to a combination of factors:
  • 1st - My finger... While it is not awful at the moment I am fed up of it hanging over me. I know that if I try to compete on it I will only make it worse, no matter how much I proclaim that I will not crimp on it.
  • 2nd - There is little chance of me making a place that I will be satisfied with until I am fully fit. There will always be that 'what if?' hanging over it.
  • 3rd - Since I cannot go to the Reading round of SIBL and Anthony can go to neither the Sutton or Reading round, it hardly seems worth spending such a large amount of money on merely seeing friends (harsh as this may sound - I will see many people when I go back for summer. I hope no one feels too spurned)
  • 4th - With the Inter Semester Break looming its fearsome face I would like to try and get outside somewhere and engage in that forgotten pastime of outdoor climbing. If I am to do this I dont want to have a gammy finger holding me back.


2nd. - I have been inspired to train properly. I'm not quite sure what the 'aim' is right now but I think the real target is just to complete the training schedule I have set. The 'aim' will manifest itself in due course I am sure.

So far this consists of having read the relevant sections from 'Conditioning for Climbers' by Eric H├Ârst and creating a programme based upon a phase system.

Week 1-2: - Stamina
Week 3-5: - Power
Week 6-7: - Power Endurance
Week 8: - Rest

So far the stamina stage consists of:
  • Recuperating my finger injury with late night ice bath sessions and low difficulty climbs
  • Weight loss via restricted calorie diet and exercise (3 meals a day and runs 2 times a week + sessions of climbing and core workouts)
  • Stretching.
  • Increasing the number of moves done in a session by dropping the difficulty and working on technique, body position and static movement instead.
  • Pullups will be on the menu in the coming week - I frequently neglect this area of my climbing and I know my lockoff strength has let me down on numerous occasions.

3rd. - I am trying to be proactive about my movements in the inter semester break, either organising a trip up north, or if can get a decent amount of time, then even a trip to Fontainebleau might be on the books.

4th. - I bought the beginnings of a rack in the 65% off sale at Blacks in Guildford.
I am now the proud owner of a great deal of CAMP gear including:
  • A helmet! (never really thought I would buy one)
  • 3 Cams in sizes 1, 1.5 and 2.5 (the 2.5 comes in a fetching shade of pink)
  • a Set of nuts in sizes 1 through 7
  • and 2 large slings for anchoring!
Unfortunately I haven't the foggiest what to do with all this shiny equipment just yet but I hope that once the exams are over with I will be able to put it to some use.

5th. - I watched 127 hours this evening and it has left me full of desire to go out and do something impressive. While I am pretty certain this is not the desired effect of the film it seems to have stirred something within my brain. I havent adventured in far too long and I think I miss it.
Cheddar is too sterile with the village easily accessible at the bottom.
Avon is overshadowed by Bristol.
And indoor bouldering was never going to scratch this itch.

I think that once this period of exams is over I need to go and play in the wilderness for a bit lest I go slightly mad.


I think this is kinda the end of this post, if you read it all then congratulations.
Your reward comes in the form of these links:
Have a nice day all you strange people that read this, I have an early morning walk to take up the hill in a few hours.
Gotta love the library even if it does smell of nauseating peperoni/Chinese food.

Oh balls...I haven't made lunch yet.
Task one tomorrow - Make lunch.
Mmmmm, cous cous with Chorizo.
Simple yet elegant - much like myself. Ha.

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