In the past two weeks I'm afraid that a great number of things of no importance have occurred. But several decisions have been made.
1st. - I have taken the somewhat controversial decision to stop competing for this season. This is due to a combination of factors:
- 1st - My finger... While it is not awful at the moment I am fed up of it hanging over me. I know that if I try to compete on it I will only make it worse, no matter how much I proclaim that I will not crimp on it.
- 2nd - There is little chance of me making a place that I will be satisfied with until I am fully fit. There will always be that 'what if?' hanging over it.
- 3rd - Since I cannot go to the Reading round of SIBL and Anthony can go to neither the Sutton or Reading round, it hardly seems worth spending such a large amount of money on merely seeing friends (harsh as this may sound - I will see many people when I go back for summer. I hope no one feels too spurned)
- 4th - With the Inter Semester Break looming its fearsome face I would like to try and get outside somewhere and engage in that forgotten pastime of outdoor climbing. If I am to do this I dont want to have a gammy finger holding me back.
2nd. - I have been inspired to train properly. I'm not quite sure what the 'aim' is right now but I think the real target is just to complete the training schedule I have set. The 'aim' will manifest itself in due course I am sure.
So far this consists of having read the relevant sections from 'Conditioning for Climbers' by Eric Hörst and creating a programme based upon a phase system.
Week 1-2: - Stamina
Week 3-5: - Power
Week 6-7: - Power Endurance
Week 8: - Rest
So far the stamina stage consists of:
- Recuperating my finger injury with late night ice bath sessions and low difficulty climbs
- Weight loss via restricted calorie diet and exercise (3 meals a day and runs 2 times a week + sessions of climbing and core workouts)
- Stretching.
- Increasing the number of moves done in a session by dropping the difficulty and working on technique, body position and static movement instead.
- Pullups will be on the menu in the coming week - I frequently neglect this area of my climbing and I know my lockoff strength has let me down on numerous occasions.
3rd. - I am trying to be proactive about my movements in the inter semester break, either organising a trip up north, or if can get a decent amount of time, then even a trip to Fontainebleau might be on the books.
4th. - I bought the beginnings of a rack in the 65% off sale at Blacks in Guildford.
I am now the proud owner of a great deal of CAMP gear including:
- A helmet! (never really thought I would buy one)
- 3 Cams in sizes 1, 1.5 and 2.5 (the 2.5 comes in a fetching shade of pink)
- a Set of nuts in sizes 1 through 7
- and 2 large slings for anchoring!
Unfortunately I haven't the foggiest what to do with all this shiny equipment just yet but I hope that once the exams are over with I will be able to put it to some use.
5th. - I watched 127 hours this evening and it has left me full of desire to go out and do something impressive. While I am pretty certain this is not the desired effect of the film it seems to have stirred something within my brain. I havent adventured in far too long and I think I miss it.
Cheddar is too sterile with the village easily accessible at the bottom.
Avon is overshadowed by Bristol.
And indoor bouldering was never going to scratch this itch.
I think that once this period of exams is over I need to go and play in the wilderness for a bit lest I go slightly mad.
I think this is kinda the end of this post, if you read it all then congratulations.
Your reward comes in the form of these links:
- Firstly: This chaps blog has inspired me - http://markmcgowan01.blogspot.com/
- Secondly: This film was brilliant, despite the shoddy looking trailer. Watch from about 2.40 if you want an idea of the skills on show - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JF_yGZqroE
- Thirdly: My training schedule plan so far - https://spreadsheets1.google.com/ccc?key=t94lxZNNmY4geZn7DGVR2yA&hl=en&authkey=COaWm_MC#gid=0
- Fourthly: My ticklist so far - https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=t8XQDXtXzuFAFQRjYgy1NJQ&hl=en&authkey=COH_4p4H#gid=1
Have a nice day all you strange people that read this, I have an early morning walk to take up the hill in a few hours.
Gotta love the library even if it does smell of nauseating peperoni/Chinese food.
Oh balls...I haven't made lunch yet.
Task one tomorrow - Make lunch.
Mmmmm, cous cous with Chorizo.
Simple yet elegant - much like myself. Ha.
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