Monday 20 May 2013

Brean Dreaming

Another week of training:
Monday - Bouldering + football
Tuesday - Bouldering
Wednesday - Stamina Routes at Craggy
Thursday - Rest
Friday - Rest

Monday was a super day for doing problems at the school wall, did all the dynos aside from the hardest one and did some on the minute training. I also did some weighted climbing with the 10kg weight vest (first time it has been used in anger, and it was nice to gain an understanding of the problems that some of the kids probably feel when they are struggling with a move.

I rested thu/fri to ensure that I had enough juice for the climbing on Saturday.

Saturday morning rolled around and it was time to go to Brean again.

This time we had a really strong group of climbers to go with:

Nat Tanzer

Be Fuller

And Pete (who has some cool shoes)

We started off by running up some of the easier problems on the wall. I did a 7a, using some horrific tiny holds because I didnt see the large pocket nearby.

I then moved on to a nearby 7b called Clashing socks. Pete had just flashed it and seemed convinced that I would be able to do the same.

After working the bottom out, using some terrible holds to work my way up to the hands off rest at 2/3rds height. After leaning out to look at the moves, and then coming back down to the rest, I made another attempt.

Nat on the upper section of Clashing Socks, 7b

Sadly, I failed to notice a good right hand crimp in the crux section and fell off trying to grab a chalky patch that contained a non existant hold. The next time round, I found some better beta and managed to get to the top.

I didnt bother trying the route from the bottom again, but instead had a go on a nearby 7c+ called Storm Warning.

Nat on the start moves on Storm Warning, 7c+

Storm Warning breaks down into two halves. The first half is certainly the crux, it is perhaps about V5/6 boulder, into a good rest at the break. The next half is the top part of a nearby 7b+ called Chullila, that I had done 3 or so years ago.

The first crux revolves around two undercuts and some really high feet. On my first attempt I really struggled to complete the moves and had to hang for quite a while to get them down. When I eventually reached the top, I was fairly convinced that even if the stamina was not a issue, the start moves would be.

While I was resting, Nat made another attempt on the route and made her way to the top!

 After this, I made a lead attempt on the route. Much to my surprise, I cruised through the bottom section and made it to the first rest point, but didnt find a great position. I shook out a little bit, but as soon as I started moving into the 7b+ section, I knew it was no good. I managed to make it to the next clip, but after that - my arms just gave out.

I came down and went to go and get some food from the local shop. On my way back, I noticed a very comfortable pile of rocks and decided to take a nap.
I have no idea how long I slept for, but it was very refreshing. I cant remember dreaming about anything in particular, but I was woken by the sound of Be shouting 'Nat! Nat! I did it!'

I looked up, and she had made her way to the top of El Chocco, 7c! Holy crap, everyone was on fire and I was in danger of being the only person not to achieve anything!
Brean Down   
Be looked quite happy

I rose from my bed of rock and started to get ready to make another red point attempt.
When I finally got set up on the rock, I slipped on the first move, landing unceremoniously on the ground. I took a minute to get ready again and then got on with it.

I struggled this time on the start, just about making it to the break, my forearms moaning about their remaining energy. This time around, I found a much better rest position and milked it hard till my breathing came back under control.

I figured that since I was there, I might as well give it a go, conscious that the two finger pockets would probably shut me down. 

Somehow, I found myself moving through these holes, locking off high and reaching through to the crimps. After a bunch of moves, I found myself at the jugs...Confused again.

Im sure that the route is soft at 7c+, but I swear this sort of thing should really take me more than 2 redpoint attempts...

Anyways, I will be training Monday, Wednesday this week, and climbing somewhere next week in Half Term!

Photos from the rest of the set can be found at:

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