Wednesday 24 April 2013

Forest Rock and beyond

This weekend I met up with Pete Wycislik, Marcin Franiak, and Rob Gajland to go and investigate 'Forest Rock' - a small slate quarry near Leicester.

Before we went, Pete had been telling me about some of the problems there - including one called 'The Enchantress' that has recently been opened by Mike Adams (I think). At 8A, it was somewhat tougher than anything that I have done recently, and would indeed be the hardest thing that I have ever done at all! With this in mind I laughed him off, thinking that I would be be shut down hard on at least one move and have to entertain myself with other things.

Pete's face after I expressed my doubts

Nevertheless, after warming up on a selection of 6C's, 7A's and a neat problem in the back of the cave (orginally graded 7C with wet holds, but definitely easier - though I didn't actually finish the problem before moving on) I started to try the challenge of the day!

'The Enchantress' follows a line of undercuts up an overhanging wall, most of them are fairly large and easy to hold with the first 3/4 of the problem really only being about 6B once you have worked out the beta. After that you are faced with a couple of super tough moves before the final jug.

  from Archie CB on Vimeo.

Unfortunately, despite managing to do all the moves in overlapping halves, I was too tired to put in any real  efforts and had to resort to taking some film and trying to stay warm. :-(

I'm well psyched to go back and try the problem again this coming weekend, and I am very happy that it is close enough to visit for a day. The extra hour and a half saved on driving to the peak, as well as the increased light hours from the seasons make the day a far more relaxed venture.

In other news I did a Craggy 7a on the second attempt today! 
Jakob Schubert eat your heart out!

Who needs mojo when you have SWAGGA?

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