Tuesday 3 May 2011


Fontainebleau Special!

So as I may have mentioned about a month ago I farked my finger (flexor tendon strain) and was very worried about going to font and being unable to climb anything worthy of mention.

I spent a long time icing my hand and doing fairly aggressive rehab compared to the injury I suffered at the end of my last font trip.
I was still quite worried by the time we went out there, and found it very hard to get psyched in the first half of the trip.

Instead I organised a couple of early morning sessions to film Marijus on Karma. Hopefully once revision and exams are over I will be able to find the time to make a nice video for him and his sponsors. Until then I have a couple of pics from the 5/6am starts.

While we were there I also tried pulling on Moutton a cinq pattes but the left hand pinch strained my finger quite a lot so I sacked it off and sat around for the rest of the day.

Somehow I eventually found some psyche and got started.
I cant remember the trail of events that lead to my eventual ticklist but my hand eventually manned up a bit and I got on with it.

Graviton - First attempt of the trip
Lapin ou Canard - Flash
Vin Rouge - 3 Times
Le Flippeur
Holey Moley - YYFY! 3 years coming and it felt so easy when the friction was alright.

Corto Maltese - First attempt of the trip

Duroxmanie - excellent problem
Little Karma
Coquille Stand
Some random roof at isatis - ridiculously easy flash
Composition forces

Angle Serac - (other side of the arete to Angle Bens)

Roof at Bois Rond - cool problem

I reckon I made a first ascent of a slab in font! it was all green but an awesome problem. I worked it for about 30 minutes I reckon. Tricksy one.

Needless to say I am quite chuffed about the final result. I was fully expecting to act as a glorified chauffeur for the troops but instead I think I may have come away with the ticklist of the trip...
Depends what you want from a trip of course, but a solid ticklist is always top of my targets.

Anyways, I need to go do some more work instead of writing this and watching house.

I wish I could write something a bit more in depth or introspective...but my mind is a little skitz right now.

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